Skip to main content

Amazon Lower Side Cowl Repair: Part 2




Having completed the repairs to the bulkhead and upper cowl (see previous post), the next task was to sort the lower cowl area and the damage to the A pillar. I managed to find a couple of hours to start on this one afternoon just before Christmas.  I began by drilling out the spot welds to separate the panels (once again this repair is complicated by the fact that multiple sections meet in this area), I then cut off the rotten end from the inner door pillar, where it overlaps the cowl panel.


Inspecting from inside the footwell, I could see that some of the welds to the pillar's box section had 'blown' and therefore needed be cut away.



With these areas cleaned and prepped, I ran out of time and so had to finish for the day. A month past before I was able to resume as the weather turned distinctly cold and wet. With no heating in my garage,  I was not inclined to do much in January, and of course there was also the small matter of work to deal with. 

Now in early February things are moving again and today I have fabricated some repair sections. First I made a card template from which I fashioned a rough repair section for the lower cowl, again using recycled steel steel from the scrapped boiler casing. 


This was then refined, with some pseudo swaging added using a blunt coal chisel and the jaws of my vice as a kind of form. 

Clamping the finished panel in place I then made a card template for the inner A pillar repair. For this I used a thicker card which I was able to press and hammer against the inside of the pillar to take an impression, resulting in a pretty accurate template and subsequent repair piece.


Here then are the two finished sections clamped in situ. 




I have not yet welded these in, for a very good reason. As the images imply, the o/s floor pan is also looking a bit worse for wear and as this attaches to the cowl, I really need to sort this at the same time. I have been considering whether to try fabricating a floor piece, or simply buy a new pressing. The advantage off the latter might be time saved, and I suspect I will be able to make a neater job of it. The disadvantage is of course cost. I repaired the n/s floor some years ago, when I was still thinking that mats and carpets might be fitted. This is no longer the case and so I think realistically I should replace both sides with new panels. 

The upshot of this is that before I do any work on the floor, it would probable be better to attack the windscreen corners (yet another common amazon issue) as I don't want to be clambering about on the new floor and potentially damaging it. To sort out the windshield frame I first need to remove the dash.

I had already started this process before Christmas, removing switches, disentangling the wiring loom, removing heating ducts and disconnecting the speedometer cable. I have also removed the chrome trim that runs across the dash front. If you are thinking of doing this by the way, please note that this trim is held on with clips and 2 small bolts (one either end).  So, as is the case the rear window trim,  don't just try and pry it off ... you will wreck it!

Today I have removed the cash pad, steering wheel, binnacle and indicator switch. The crash pad is held on with the same screws that fix the dash to the bulk head, and is glued to the dash top.



 It came off with very little resistance but it is in such poor condition that I can't really save it. I do have another stashed away, which whilst not perfect, is considerably better: I really do not want to buy a new one, especially as I might end up hacking it about to fit additional instruments.


The steering wheel also gave up without a fight. I was mulling over how to make a puller, but I thought I would just chance my arm and give it some gentle taps with a rubber mallet. To my surprise it came away, no bother. Next I removed the binnacle (3 screws) and the indicator switch, having photographed and labelled the wires. Then I hit a problem...



Somewhere around '68, Volvo made some significant changes to the amazon. These are most apparent in the breaking system (twin circuit), the rear suspension and the steering column. Whilst these upgrades are on the whole desirable, they do present some challenges for the build. One such challenge is the steering column ignition.

Earlier versions featured an ignition key switch mounted on the dash*,  with an armoured cable between the switch and the coil. Late amazons along with P1800s and 140s were fitted with a steering column ignition incorporating a steering lock as an anti- theft device. 


To remove the dash I need to draw it forward over the steering column, which I cannot do with the lock in place, but you can't just unbolt it as it is held in place with 'security' bolts. In addition, I have noticed that the bracket under the dash which braces to the column also features 'security' bolts. 



OK, I have given up for the day. I really need to think about this...do some research. I need to find out how the steering lock mechanism works, and if there is any danger of damaging it if I drill the bolts out and dissemble it. I have already discovered the replacement units are no longer available, at any cost. 

Hmmm......


< previous post               next post >




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Boot (Trunk) Excavation

As I suspect you are aware, issues with rot in the boot (trunk) of the Volvo 120 series are common and my Amazon is no exception. Over the years it has been 'repaired' a number of times and not always sympathetically. I have made a start removing the filler and the patchwork of metal plates that make up the n/s and the floor next to the spare wheel well.  I've ground off some of the welds, chiselled and bent back the non-original metal.  As I have already reported the lower rear quarter replacement panels are definitely not correctly positioned but I have successfully managed to uncover the original boot floor which although is in a very poor condition, does give me some points of reference for the rebuild. Incidentally, a word of warning. I had to remove a lot of seam sealer and I really should have been wearing gloves. A slip with the scraper brought the session to a rapid conclusion. I was lucky not to end up in A&E. Now that I have investigated more tho...

Tooling Up: DIY Sheet Metal Brake

My new 1mm sheet steel has arrived, along with some additional angle and flat bar... but more of that in a moment. Using the refined ply forms , I have now made the boot floor rear edge piece again and I am much happier with it.  Going for the extra gauge steel was definitely the right decision and this new panel feels much more substantial. I have had a full test fitting with all panels, which is looking pretty good. The next issue concerns the rear inner arch to which spare wheel well side and floor is to be attached. There is some rust here and so this will need to be repaired before the really serious welding/reconstruction of the boot floor can begin. Although only a relatively small area, complex curves and profiles need to be created. I realised then that I had need of more fabrication tools. Here then is a description of how I fashioned a DIY sheet metal brake; a means by which I can easily and precisely create folds in sheet metal of up to around 90˚or so. This constructio...

Volvo Amazon Chassis Repairs

As suggested in my recent post, the job I originally planned at this point was to repair the battery tray which is in a bit of a state. However, even after an extensive staring, prodding and rumination, I still haven't come up with a strategy. The curves and swaging in this pressing are really quite complex, I am simply not ready to tackle this.  "Does it really matter what it looks like?" I hear you cry, "Won't it be hidden?" Well, actually I think it does, not least of all as I am planning to relocate the battery to the boot (trunk) and utilise the tray in some other way (the current thinking is to locate an oil catcher here, which is required for competition). If so, the repairs will indeed be visible. I've decided to ignore it for the time being and come back to it later. Instead I have turned my attention to the rear arches, starting with the offside. I knew that there are some repairs required to the chassis and the area above the spring locator. I...