PROJECT VOLVO

  Picking up from where we left off, I had decided that I needed to create a controlled curve in the panel that I was creating for the front part of the O/S boot floor. I felt I needed a slip roller, or something similar. Researching available tools it soon became apparent that cost was disproportionate, given that it was entirely possible that I would never need this tool again, and so a 'DIY' solution was required. A couple of hours on YouTube and a root through the scarp metal bin... I came up with a plan. I used a couple of scrap bearings salvaged from Mazda Bongo idler pullys, two Ikea desk legs and an old HiFi speaker stand. The bearings fitted perfectly into the ends of the desk legs, great, so I then fitted some bolts and washers through the centre go the bearings as spindles. On the other end of the legs I found a couple more bolts that fitted snuggly into the plastic feet. Obviously not a robust solution, but I figured strong enough to last the short time required. I ...

I have been working on the boot floor area for... well, for ever! In previous posts I have illustrated the extent of the rot problem and I have addressed the n/s area, with new spare wheel well panels and some fabrication. At this stage, whilst I have fitted up multiple times, I had not actually welded the new panels in, and for good reason, everything has a knock on effect. Much of boot floor on the offside was paper thin, like tissue paper. I have had to proceed carefully to keep effective datum points and fit it all together. On this side complications have arisen from the fact that with the exception of the outer valance, no repair sections are available. I would have to fabricate everything myself. This I have now done, but it has been a long process. Right from the start of this project I have been chewing over how to repair/recreate the rolled over lip that forms the recess for the fuel tank. I have always felt that if I couldn't sort this out, then the project would never ...

  This post is a short update and will not feature much in the way of photographic documentation I'm afraid.  I have not been as diligent with my camera as I should be. Following the O/S rear chassis and inner wheel tub repairs ( see previous post ), I turned my attention to the new inner arch panels. These pressings look great and come highly recommended. It has been my plan for a good while to use these as the structure from which to rebuild the whole of the rear quarters, but (surprise, surprise) I have hit some problems.  The first issue seems to be with the fit to the outer arches. I have new repair sections for these and so I thought that the best way to start would be to offer these up together, expecting them to clip together precisely; if only. I spent an entire day measuring, making card templates and trying to work out how they might marry up. I can tell you that the radius of the inner repair is not by default the same as the outer. This threw me completely....

As suggested in my recent post, the job I originally planned at this point was to repair the battery tray which is in a bit of a state. However, even after an extensive staring, prodding and rumination, I still haven't come up with a strategy. The curves and swaging in this pressing are really quite complex, I am simply not ready to tackle this.  "Does it really matter what it looks like?" I hear you cry, "Won't it be hidden?" Well, actually I think it does, not least of all as I am planning to relocate the battery to the boot (trunk) and utilise the tray in some other way (the current thinking is to locate an oil catcher here, which is required for competition). If so, the repairs will indeed be visible. I've decided to ignore it for the time being and come back to it later. Instead I have turned my attention to the rear arches, starting with the offside. I knew that there are some repairs required to the chassis and the area above the spring locator. I...

Back in May last year I started a process of refurbishing the speedometer unit from my Amazon. The speedometer itself was working fine, it was simply a matter of appearance; just like probably every other Volvo Amazon out there, the grey crackle coating on the facia had deteriorated and was peeling off. Many owners remove the coating completely and simply leave the brass finish, but quite frankly I don't like this look. I took the plunge and experimented with disassembling the binnacle (details in this earlier post ). I can now report that I have finished the task. The first challenge prior to painting the was what to do about the plastic warning lamp lenses (high beam, indicators, oil pressure and charge/amps). I wanted to remove them as I thought they would be difficult to mask effectively.  They are fixed originally by being melted from the back. They also each have a rubber shroud which being 50+ years old and subjected to heat cycles from the lamps, are somewhat discoloured an...

We are into spring and I have been able to spend some time working on the nearside (UK right hand drive car) windscreen frame. This was considerably more extensive than the corrosion damage on the offside, with the biggest challenge being that an area of the lip had completely disintegrated. Before I proceed, I must apologise as I have been a bit lax with the camera and I have not documented this as comprehensively as I perhaps should. Anyway... back to the welding. First, I cut away the rot from the inside bulkhead pressing.  Then using my DIY sheet metal folder along with the shrinker/stretcher, I fashioned a repair piece. There was just about enough of the outer lip remaining to get the shape and depth; I also took measurements and made card templates from the offside window frame corner. With this welded in place, I fabricated the first of two sections for the outer lip, again using the shrinker/stretcher tool and referring to the templates and measurements from the offside. On...